The squat, hefty cake (6 ounces, $13.95) made with large, delicate lumps of crab is lightly seasoned and adorned with a few specks of parsley. The umber-tinged binder leads one to expect a big hit of mustard, and it delivers, but in an unexpected way – though the condiment does lend a subtle edge, the depth of the crab mustard makes Snyder’s recipe truly remarkable.